Hello from Cuernavaca - My Last Day of School and a Visit to the Cuernavaca Spring Fair

This morning I headed off on the Ruta no. 2 to thesomehow reminds me a little bit of polka, with its
Túnel area of town and started my last day atfast rhythms and brass instruments. A nice version of
the Cetlalic Language School. We had a veryoompah music. Banda is a very popular style of music
interesting day, during the first part of the day wein Mexico right now and you hear it everywhere.
discussed the water shortage in Cuernavaca and thatMy good friend Roxana from the city's tourism
the city is going through extreme dryness right now.department picked me up at 5:15 to go to the
Our teacher only receives water twice a week rightCuernavaca Spring Fair. We were to join a lady by
now for one hour each. And even then the waterthe name of Maria José and her TV crew who
only comes out of the tap in a trickle. These typeswere doing a special on the spring fair. Maria
of things generally happen in the less affluentJosé hosts a weekly TV show called "Tacos y
neighbourhoods of town. At the same time,Caviar" and is a local celebrity.
Cuernavaca is also known as one of the cities inThe Cuernavaca Spring Fair is an annual event and
Mexico with the most swimming pools, so somelast year it attracted 350,000 visitors. It includes
people have better access to water than others.various stands with different types of merchandise, a
One of my co-students mentioned that in Mexicofood court and various vendors throughout the
City there is an extreme water shortage and thefairgrounds, a midway with a large variety of rides
water is pumped up from surrounding communitiesfor children, and various exhibitions. This year for
into the city. In one of the communities, a formerexample there was a special exhibition on Bolivian arts
agricultural community, much of the water is pumpedand crafts, there was also a stand illustrating the
away to Mexico, so they are left with the residualoperation of dry toilets and the overall theme for the
water after the filtration process, resulting in a lowerfair this year was cleanliness, ecology and garbage
quantity but more contaminated water supply.separation.
After a bit more torture with the Spanish subjunctiveI had an opportunity to speak with the Head of
we finished our morning classes and for me this wasTourism and Economic Development of Cuernavaca,
the last day of school. Jorge Torres, the director ofMr. Rafael Jiménez Salazar, who indicated that
Cetlalic, called his team together and presented athe city is working on improving its operations to
certificate of completion to me, which I very muchbecome a cleaner, more environmentally conscious
appreciated. Following the ceremony, my costudentscity and that to this effect the city has put in place
and my teacher went on an exploration of thevarious councils to achieve a number of goals to
Museo Cuahnavac while I spent some more time withmaking Cuernavaca a better place to live. Especially
Jorge to learn more about the school.since the 1985 earthquake in Mexico City the city has
Jorge explained that he comes from a working classexperienced a tremendous surge in population and
background and that his father was very active inthe administration is working hard on trying to deal
the union movement in the US owned textilewith the immense population growh. Ecological issues
company he worked in. His father and some of theare also being paid more attention to.
other union organizers were dismissed and staged aAmong the group of special performers was a group
5-month long sit-in in front of the factory, and ofof 6 men called the Voladores de Papantla. This is a
course they received no salaries. So Jorge had tofolkloric group of Totonac Indians from the State of
start to work at a young age, in construction. He alsoVeracruz who are dressed up in colourful traditional
studied teaching Spanish as a Second Language andcostumes. They climb up a pole that can be up to
started to develop his political and activist interests150 feet long, then they wind a series of ropes
(particularly his solidarity for El Salvador, etc.)around the pole. Following this they tie their ankles to
Jorge has been teaching Spanish since he his earlythe rope and jump off. Then the performers "fly"
twenties. At two other prior schools he wasaround the pole as the rope unwinds. One of the
confronted with some students who didn't reallyperfomers playes a haunting melody on a drum and a
want to learn Spanish. They were more concernedflute and the musician is the last one to come down
with the latest romantic conquests they had made. Afrom the pole, gliding down the rope from the top.
frustrating situation for Jorge who started to lookOne of the men stays on the ground to collect tips.
around for other opportunity.This is a phenomenal spectacle and it is supposed to
A group called the Committee for Solidarity for Elbe an ancient ritual representing the cycle of life that
Salvador started the Cetlalic language school and hewas first performed to implore the rain gods.
began his work there as the school's director. HisI had a brief chat with the voladores, or to be more
language school markets itself primarily to activistsaccurate, with one of the voladores, since the other
and to politically interested people. At the beginningfive men were either too shy or not interested in
running the school was difficult since no one reallytalking with me. The young man I talked to was very
had any idea about marketing. Cetlalic uses the Paulofriendly and told me that they had travelled even to
Freire method of teaching Spanish, which includesMichigan and Maine to perform their unique ritual.
learning the language in a social and political context.I also had a chance to check out the merchant's tent
It was interesting to find out more about Jorge'swhere a great variety of goods and services were
personal background and what made him come upbeing promoted. I ended up purchasing a little white
with such a unique concept for a language school Ihandbag that was manufactured by the women's
thanked him and handed him a little souvenir fromartists collective from the Caminamos Juntos
Toronto and we said goodbye. As always, I took theorganization.
bus downtown and sat down for lunch in aThen, Maria José, Roxana and I sat down to
restaurant called Jardín de Cuernavaca where Iplay a "Lotería" where every person had a
had a simple chicken with French fries and salad andunique picture card and there were about 30 or 40
an asparagus soup. I have to admit this wasn't theunique photos that were being called out and you
tastiest meal that I've had in Mexico.used a beer cap to indicate that you were able to
Appropriately strengthened I trotted off to anmatch that picture. Whoever's card was full of
Internet café to check my messages andbeercaps would win a nice little prize.
started to snoop around on the market area in frontRoxana and I headed out around 9 pm, and we were
of the Palacio de Cortés since I wanted to buyboth pretty tired after a long day. We stayed up and
some authentic Mexican CDs. I finally found 3chatted for many hours afterwards, and it was great
different types of music, one is called banda whichto have such a nice local connection in Cuernavaca.